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First-Timer's Guide to Iran

First-Timer's Guide to Iran

Leila Hosseini

Leila Hosseini

Iran Correspondent

May 6, 2026 3 min
Don't miss
  • Bring clean cash
  • Learn a few Persian words
  • Don't over-plan distances

Iran is far easier — and far kinder — than the headlines suggest. A few practicalities go a long way.

Money

International cards do not work. Bring clean cash (euros or dollars) and exchange it for rial; expect to become a casual millionaire.

Dress & etiquette

Women cover their hair loosely; everyone dresses modestly. Learn 'salam' and 'merci' and accept the tea — refusing hospitality is the only real faux pas.

Getting around

Domestic flights are cheap; VIP buses are superb; the trains are a joy. Distances are large — don't try to do everything.

On the map

Iran

About the writer

Leila writes about the deserts, bazaars and poetry of the Iranian plateau, tracing the old caravan routes from Yazd to the Caspian.

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